Surfing Pipeline
Provided by 805surf.com

Alright dude, you’ve seen the pictures, memorized the videos, heard your friends rant and rave about the perfect barrel they scored on their winter vacation to Maui, and now you’re confident you can handle paddling into a triple overhead Hawaiian reef bowl. Well Hercules, that’s great. But before your book your ticket on Hawaiian Airlines, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. Every year, thousands of wave riders make their perennial pilgrimage to the Hawaiian Islands in hopes of heightening their surfing, being immortalized in a magazine spread, and scoring some warm water perfection.

Hawaii’s primary target for visiting surfers? Pipeline. The Arena. Kodak Reef. Beginning in August, the phones for the north shore beach rentals start ringing off the hook. Major surf companies including Volcom, Billabong, and Hurley stake their claim on immaculate Hawaiian beach front homes for the winter surfing season. The first beach rentals to go?... the ones fronting Ehukai Beach Park and the Pipeline. These industry players are willing to drop thousands of dollars a week on palatial Oahu beach rentals just to be within a stone's throw of the main attraction.

Simply put, Pipeline is the most famous, feared, and revered wave in the world. Hands down. Period. Arguably the most intense, hunchbacked barrel around, this north shore pit is constantly the conversational measuring stick by which all other tubes are rated (“like Pipe”, “spittin’ like Pipe”, etc.)

Thick, beastly swells of mammoth proportion detonate across the shallow lava reef with enough force to send you running back to the safety and comfort of your Waikiki hotel. The wave itself picks up incredibly fast as it refracts along the jagged Hawaiian reef shelf. It takes cat-quick agility to handle the intensely vertical drop. And if you don't make the drop... did you know that more wave riders have died here than any other break in the world?! Scary stuff. Factor in an agressive crowd that's hungrier than a pack of starved wolves and it gives you an idea of the seriousness of this place. Interestingly enough, the heaving pits break comfortingly close to the white sands of Ehukai Beach Park.

Before moving on, I wanted to give you a couple quick words of wisdom about riding this place. First, to compensate for the vertical drop that you're sure to encounter on the take off, lean forward a bit and swoop in at an angle. You wouldn't believe how many cocky "pros-in-the-making" have pearled by dropping in straight. Leave that to the local Hawaiian varsity. You'll have a much better chance of engaging your fins and rail by getting into the wave early and taking the initial drop at an angle. Secondly, as you set your line and wait for the lip to start pitching over; stay back a bit on the tail and pump your board to accelerate through the chamber. The pits at Pipe have a tendency to warp and bend, so you definitely want to be in an agile position. The last thing you want is to get caught on the shockwave as the wave implodes as you’re gunning for the exit.

Moving right along...

When the surf's pumping, a potent current runs northward along the beach. To compensate for this current, you'll watch many of the locals walk up the sand toward Haleiwa until they are just west of the peak. Follow their example. The water here moves swiftly, and you'll be shocked by how quickly your frantic paddling efforts will be nullified by the river-like current. Attempting to paddle straight out from the channel entrance will be a quick lesson in humility as you're rapidly swept down toward Pupukea. Not a lot of fun.

The tri-reef setup allows Pipeline to handle some serious size... often in the 15-foot range! Like a finger extending into the Pacific, the reef protrudes out into deep water amplifying the incoming swells.

High tide seems to add an edge to the waves, as the swell energy has a tendency to pass up 3rd and 2nd reef due to the water depth, and intensify on 1st reef. The resulting tubes are often wider than they are tall. These days often produce the infamous images of Pipe that have been burned into our minds as wave riders. Furthermore, just as different tides have effects on the wave intensity, different swell directions interact differently with the bathymetry (the shape of the ocean floor and bottom configurations). For example, west swells funnel sand into the channel resulting in a thumping shorebreak style closeout. A good rule of thumb is; the more west in the swell, the heavier and hollower the wave. On the other hand, swells originating from a more northerly direction drain sand off the reef and open up Backdoor (the right at Pipeline.) Keep in mind that Backdoor is essentially a closeout over a dry lava shelf. The shoulders are sporadic and the wave can pinch closed unpredictably. Furthermore, if you happen to wipeout while swooping into Backdoor, you'll end up in the worst possible place on the reef as you'll be dragged by the current directly into the impact zone. If this is the case, prepare for an invigorating salt water massage. However, if all the elements happen to be in place, you'll be rewarded with a hair-raising drop followed by a square barrel that drives you through a massive bowl into a ramping end section. All that while you're gunning it at 30 mph over a cheese grater reef that's less than two feet beneath the surface. Talk about a thrill.

Okay, okay, sounds good. Pipe is definitely a phenomenal wave. But are there any other high-quality breaks nearby? Yes, of course! The north shore offers a variety of world-class breaks. And best of all, some of them are relatively uncrowded. For those wave riders that are ready to discover the oh-so-many hidden gems that Hawaii has to offer... one of the best references available is an awesome publication called Surfer's Guide to Hawaii. This blockbuster surf guide provides both novice and advanced wave riders with a comprehensive breakdown of the Hawaiian surfing environment. Highlights include: peak seasons, weather conditions, surf shops, crowd management tips, ocean hazards, a complete listing of surf spots, outer island breaks (Maui, Kauai, etc.) and even a few "semi-secret" spots! Talk about a complete resource. This is one of the few books that I keep in my surfing library. I highly recommend it.

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Until next time, I'll see you in the water.

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