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Provided by 805surf.com
Hawaii’s primary target for visiting surfers? Pipeline. The Arena. Kodak Reef. Beginning in August, the phones for the north shore beach rentals start ringing off the hook. Major surf companies including Volcom, Billabong, and Hurley stake their claim on immaculate Hawaiian beach front homes for the winter surfing season. The first beach rentals to go?... the ones fronting Ehukai Beach Park and the Pipeline. These industry players are willing to drop thousands of dollars a week on palatial Oahu beach rentals just to be within a stone's throw of the main attraction.
Simply put, Pipeline is the most famous, feared, and revered wave in the world. Hands down. Period. Arguably the most intense, hunchbacked barrel around, this north shore pit is constantly the conversational measuring stick by which all other tubes are rated (“like Pipe”, “spittin’ like Pipe”, etc.)
Thick, beastly swells of mammoth proportion detonate across the shallow lava reef with enough force to send you running back to the safety and comfort of your Waikiki hotel. The wave itself picks up incredibly fast as it refracts along the jagged Hawaiian reef shelf. It takes cat-quick agility to handle the intensely vertical drop. And if you don't make the drop... did you know that more wave riders have died here than any other break in the world?! Scary stuff. Factor in an agressive crowd that's hungrier than a pack of starved wolves and it gives you an idea of the seriousness of this place. Interestingly enough, the heaving pits break comfortingly close to the white sands of Ehukai Beach Park.
The tri-reef setup allows Pipeline to handle some serious size... often in the 15-foot range! Like a finger extending into the Pacific, the reef protrudes out into deep water amplifying the incoming swells.
High tide seems to add an edge to the waves, as the swell energy has a tendency to pass up 3rd and 2nd reef due to the water depth, and intensify on 1st reef. The resulting tubes are often wider than they are tall. These days often produce the infamous images of Pipe that have been burned into our minds as wave riders. Furthermore, just as different tides have effects on the wave intensity, different swell directions interact differently with the bathymetry (the shape of the ocean floor and bottom configurations). For example, west swells funnel sand into the channel resulting in a thumping shorebreak style closeout. A good rule of thumb is; the more west in the swell, the heavier and hollower the wave. On the other hand, swells originating from a more northerly direction drain sand off the reef and open up Backdoor (the right at Pipeline.) Keep in mind that Backdoor is essentially a closeout over a dry lava shelf. The shoulders are sporadic and the wave can pinch closed unpredictably. Furthermore, if you happen to wipeout while swooping into Backdoor, you'll end up in the worst possible place on the reef as you'll be dragged by the current directly into the impact zone. If this is the case, prepare for an invigorating salt water massage. However, if all the elements happen to be in place, you'll be rewarded with a hair-raising drop followed by a square barrel that drives you through a massive bowl into a ramping end section. All that while you're gunning it at 30 mph over a cheese grater reef that's less than two feet beneath the surface. Talk about a thrill.
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Until next time, I'll see you in the water. |