GVMnetwork.com | Eleven Things You MUST Know About Your Local Breaks

Being a surfer, you'd think that I'd have planned it. But how the heck was I supposed to know that during a recent 10-day stay in Hawaii, every corner of the Pacific would be blasting the island chain with overhead surf? Talk about perfect. It was absolute heaven on Earth. A total surfer's paradise. I was on Kauai to visit some friends... and the entire friggin' rock was smoking with gorgeous conditions. Trade swells, a New Zealand south, an oddball northwest... you name it. Add some light offshore winds to the equation, and needless to say I didn't spend as much time with my friends as I probably should have. But being avid surfers themselves, I'm sure they understood. Between packing in close to a thousand miles on my rental car, and waxing up between sessions, I was busy scribbling down notes on the yellowed pages of a legal pad documenting the unplanned perfection. The events of that week really didn't prevail on me until I was flying back to California. As I gazed out the window holding my stomach after one too many packets of "complementary peanuts"... it dawned on me that there are certain factors and fundamentals that can dramatically impact any break on the planet. We're talking key fundamentals that every wave rider has got to be aware of. And I'll tell you what, this last trip sure confirmed that. So go grab your favorite beverage, sit back in your computer chair, and really consider the following points as you read them.

TIDE - This is a major influencing factor for many of the world's breaks. In Panama, the tide swings can be in excess of fifteen feet... in Hawaii they are rarely over two feet. It depends on what part of the world you live in, and the type of breaks you ride. How do low and high tides effect your local spots? Does low tide leave the reef shallow and make for an absolute "barrel-fest", while high tide puts some water between you and the bottom and slows the wave up, leaving some room for open face turns and maneuvers? Some beachbreaks offer a punchy shorepound as the tide rises and the swell energy surpasses the outer sandbars and breaks in closer. Ventura County offers a variety of breaks that thrive on different tides. How do your home breaks react to different tides?

Check out how the low tide adds an edge to this already shallow reef break.
How do you think low tide impacts your local spots?

CROWDS - How do the crowds vary throughout the week? Are dawn patrols the best option, or are the line ups often desolate during an afternoon session? Many spots are paralyzingly crowded during the weekend, but are relatively empty during the work week. Furthermore, what's the crowd like? Is it a pretty mellow vibe in the water, or is it more aggresive than a crowded day at Silver Strand during an overhead winter swell? And how does the crowd spread out? Is the pack densely concentrated in only a couple areas leaving vacant peaks further down the beach? This is often the trade off with many reef and point breaks in contrast to beach breaks. With your typical reef or point setup, the take off zone is compressed and can lead to a quickly congested line up. However with beach breaks, the crowd can move around and spread out a bit ensuring everyone gets their fair share.

SWELL DIRECTION - Do the northern or southern hemi swells funnel into your home breaks better? Or perhaps you have a variety of spots that pick up entirely different swell directions. Do the Channel Islands, certain offshore anomalies, or harbor breakwalls block a certain swell direction? If there is a predominant south swell in the water, does a current form that makes remaining stationary in the line up difficult? How does a combination swell impact your home breaks? For many beach breaks throughout Ventura County, it often yields A-framing peaks for the exposed spots... but it can leave reefs and points in a confused mess. Remember that the swell direction changes with the season. So the breaks you primarily surf in June, will probably differ from the breaks you'll find yourself surfing in Decemeber. The key is understanding how the swell directions interact with your local breaks so you know the best spots to check when the surf starts funneling in.

SWELL SIZE - Offshore swell models just forecasted a triple overhead northwester to smash into your little sector of the coast within 48 hours... do you know what spots you're going to check first? Simple question, how big do your breaks hold? If you primarily ride sandbars; unless you frequent somewhere like Black's in San Diego or Puerto Escondido in Mexico, your average beach break will probably be closed out. However, sandbars that work off a jetty or rock formation often hold size due to the reflection and refraction caused by the interference (such as the Wedge in Newport Beach). For the most part, as the surf starts pushing double overhead it's probably best to start checking out the reefs and points. Remember that most beach breaks don't offer a consistent channel, and paddling out just as a 15-foot clean up set detonates on your head is probably not your idea of fun. Points and reefs often have an easy access channel that can make paddling out a breeze in larger surf.

WINDS - This can make or break a spot. Nothing kills a sweet session faster than a lacerating onshore wind... (uuggh!). While some sandbars can handle a lumpy wind swell, most breaks are concealed under a hideous curtain that even the most devoted wave rider won't glance beneath. However, if you visit an island, howling onshore winds on one side can mean offshore perfection on another. For example, I've personally enjoyed many Hawaii sessions during malevolent Kona winds that absolutely thrash the south and west shores. However during these winds, certain secluded north and east side breaks would be combing off the back with fans of spray and gorgeous conditions. Be sure you know how certain wind directions impact your local breaks. After all, onshore winds at one spot may be side-offshore at another.

Ahhh... the benefits of an offshore breeze.
As you can see, the wind truly does play a major role in the quality of the surf.

ACCESSIBILITY - Do you have to hike for three miles down a treacherous cliffside trail followed by a sprint across an onion plantation surrounded by barbed wire and electric fences? Or... is your home breaks one of those spots where you can pull up to the beach front parking lot, drop a couple quarters in the machine, and dash across the sand all in two minutes? If you've got somewhere to be right after you surf, this is something to take into consideration. Half a mile hike down to Santa Clara, or the ocean front parking at County Line?

WATER QUALITY - Ventura County has its share of water quality challenges. With multiple creek and river mouths feeding the local coastline, storm run off and poor water quality are issues we all have to face. From chocolate-colored water at Santa Clara, to plastic cups lining the beaches in south county, be sure to use discretion before braving any unhealthy situations. On that note, if your local breaks happen to be near any drainage, stream, or river outlets... it's best to wait at least 72 hours after any measurable rain event before going near the water. It's for your own health and well being.

BOTTOM CONFIGURATION - So what's under you? It's good to know the types of formations that your local spots break over... reef? cobblestones? sand? A combination of all three? If it's sand, the shape and quality of the waves can change almost overnight unless influenced by a sidewave, pier, jetty, or an offshore feature like a submarine canyon. If you're dealing with reef... do you know where the shallow spots are? And how gnarly is the reef? Are there some underwater boulders that break the swell up and make for an easy paddling channel? If you frequent a jetty break, have some of the rocks collapsed off the structure creating underwater hazards? If you surf a rivermouth, the bathymetry can change rapidly... so stay alert. The bottom confirguration has a direct impact on the quality of the waves that you ride. So it's definitely a good idea to know what you're surfing over at all times.

WILDLIFE - A few hazards come to mind: sharks, jellyfish, urchins, sting rays, etc. The severity of these threats is really dependent on where in the world you happen to live. For Ventura County, it's usually not too big of a deal. However in Australia, the delicate Sea Wasp jellyfish packs a lethal sting that can end your wave riding career in a matter of minutes. The west shore of Oahu has abundant lava reef breaks, but is well known for it Tiger shark sightings. Up river in Seal Beach, California is a power plant that warms the outgoing water to tropical temperatures. As a result, the river mouth on the north side of the beach is a haven for sting rays. So be sure to shuffle your feet before you step. What potential wildlife hazards are present at your local breaks? Do your spots qualify to be on National Geographic or Wild Kingdom? Honeslty, you just might not be at the top of your neighborhood food chain if you know what I mean. Definitely something to keep in mind when you're paddling out to that mysto reef break a few hundred yards from shore.

WATER TEMPERATURE - Even along the equator, water temperatures do vary by season. Obviously the temperature difference is based on what body of water you call home. For example, some spots in the eastern United States like New Jersey boast water temps in the summer that'll have you shredding in your board shorts. But come winter in New Jersey, there'll be snow on the beach and you'll be sporting a hood, fullsuit, and gloves. Even in Ventura County, a steady NW wind off the coast can generate upwelling that's capable of dropping the water temperature several degrees. Often times, this is enough to get you back into a full suit. Plan accordingly for changes in your local water temps. No one likes sitting on their board and shivering as they're waiting for the next set to approach.

AMMENITIES - Showers, lifeguards, free parking, restrooms? What are the little luxuries that your local breaks offer? If you're a member of the surf-before-work crowd, it's a great idea to frequent somewhere that has showers to save you a trip back home and increase your water time. Even more important, having a sanitary restroom nearby is especially critical. If some bad burritos start acting up and playing a drum solo in your lower intestine, you'd better know where the nearest clean stall is. The last thing you need is to have some malicious food making you sweat at 5:30am as you're venturing out for a dawn patrol. I think that's happened to every wave rider at least once. Talk about a thrill kill. Not fun at all.

"Oh no... oh no... oh dear God, why did I eat that?! Oooo... a bathroom! Oh thank you God." Can you relate?
Just a tip: always keep a roll of toilet paper in the trunk for "unplanned emergencies."
It can happen to the best of us.

In closing, take some time to answer and seriously consider the points I've brought up here. Develop a thorough understanding of the features at home breaks. This will not only enchance your sessions, but it will also save you massive amounts of time... (translation: stop driving all over Ventura County hunting for the best spot on a certain swell)... know your options and execute. If an overhead south swell is going to be met by northerly winds and a low tide... do you know where to go? What are your options? Study the factors highlited in this article. Get dialed in and start getting the most out of the spots that you proudly call your home breaks. They're yours to enjoy.

Until next time, I'll see you in the water.